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Giant spinach ravioli

These started their lives as egg yolk ravioli. I had leftover egg yolks from a baking experiment, and wanted a non-custard way to use them up. A few pokes of The Google turned up a Martha Stewart recipe for egg yolk ravioli, paired with two fillings: a ricotta-based one and a spinach one. I quite liked the idea of a ricotta-free spinach filling, and decided to try combining the filling and the egg yolk into one tidy package.

But then I ran into trouble. I wasn’t about to make my own pasta–I have neither the time, nor the counter space, nor the equipment to make homemade pasta dough without a lot of hassle. So I bought wonton wrappers. Perfectly cut, perfectly thin, and just a wee bit too small to hold both egg yolk and filling. I broke one yolk. And then another. And then another. Until I had no more yolks. Just a bowl of delicious-smelling spinach filling, flecked with translucent bits of shallot and garlic, and some lonely wonton wrappers. So I said screw it, and made spinach ravioli instead.

As it turns out, the round wonton wrappers from the supermarket produce aisle are too small for an egg yolk, but they’re the perfect size to make enormous ravioli with less-delicate fillings. Wonton ravioli are not quite the same as ravioli made from fresh dough; they’re floppier and more delicate, with a tendency to puff as they cook and then wrinkle and ruffle as they come out of the water. With a filling like this, subtle and loose and unweighted by ricotta, the lightness of the wonton wrappers was actually perfect. You can call it cheating, I suppose, but I prefer to think of these as a lightweight first cousin of fresh-dough ravioli. They’re terrific as a warm-weather first course or light lunch.

Because these are such delicate wrinkly things, they don’t need much to finish them for serving. I have a pretty little jar of black truffle salt–a gift from a generous friend–so I sprinkled a tiny bit over each portion and finished with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. You could use truffle oil instead, or skip the truffle altogether and just use olive oil. Or lemon oil. Or brown butter with sage. Or just about any sort of light and fragrant sauce-type substance. Really, the only requirement is plenty of fresh-grated Parmesan on top.

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