Tag Archives: Cherry

Cherry cranberry crumble

When it comes to seasonal fruit desserts, it seems like pie gets all of the attention. It’s certainly popular for a reason: when it comes to delivery systems for warm fruit, flaky pastry is pretty unbeatable. But pie is also a bit of a hassle, with the rolling and the fluting and the slight chance that it could all go wrong. Which is why, lately, I’ve been making crumbles instead–and, each time, remembering why they might be my favorite fruit dessert of all time.

A good fruit crumble (or crisp–the names seem interchangeable, or at least arbitrary) skips right past most of the hassle of pie-making, replacing the pastry shell with a topping of oaty, buttery crumbs. It delivers the same molten, bubbling, thick-and-juicy payoff as a pie, without the need for structural integrity. It relies almost entirely on kitchen and pantry staples–oats, flour, butter, sugar, maybe some chopped nuts–and comes together in the fraction of the time it takes to make, bake, and cool a pie. It’s dead easy to convert to gluten-free, just by swapping in rice flour for all-purpose. And instead of cutting precise slices, you can just slop portions into a bowl, top them with something cool and creamy, and call it a day.

This particular crumble, made with fresh sweet cherries and frozen cranberries, was a real eye-opener. It started as a way to use up a pound of fresh cherries–not enough for a crumble by itself, but too much for almost anything else. I found a partly-full bag of cranberries in the freezer and added them in, intending just to bulk out the crumble. In all honesty, I wasn’t even going to blog about this crumble, because it felt so strange to mix in-season and out-of-season fruit. But then I took a taste, and my mind did a backflip. This was just so, so good.

In Northern California, fresh sour cherries are practically unheard of; the only fresh cherries we can get are sweet. But as it turns out, combining sweet cherries and tart cranberries has a sour cherry-like effect, at once puckery and sugary. It also creates a remarkable texture: the cherries dissolve into the sauce, while the cranberries keep their shape, creating a soft, soupy filling with slippery, tangy pockets of fruit. Cherries and cranberries have very different seasons, so this recipe will always require a mix of fresh and frozen fruit–but it is 100 percent worth it. Add a dollop of unsweetened whipped cream, and you’ve got a dessert that’ll make cherry pie jealous.

cherry cranberry crumble plate

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Cherry tarragon shrub syrup

Once again, it looks like I spoke too soon. No sooner did I finish wailing about the end of summer than we were hit with a heavy heat wave. This weekend was dry and blue and deeply, deceptively hot. So I drank all the icy drinks I could find.

Lately Sam and I have been into shrubs. (Not shrubberies. Shrubs.) A shrub is an an alcohol-free cocktail of sorts, built on an old-school mode of preservation: fruit vinegar. We first stumbled across this at the Oregon Berry Festival, where there was a stand selling deeply colored syrups and mixing tiny sample drinks for passers-by. A cheerful, motherly woman poured a few drops into a paper cup from a bottle labeled “drinking vinegar,” added some sparkling water and a tiny ice cube, and handed it over. We tasted, and we believed.

I know this sounds strange–every time I say the words “drinking vinegar,” people wrinkle their noses and hunch up their shoulders. So don’t think of it as vinegar, exactly. Think of it as “shrub syrup,” a tangy-sweet potion of fruit and vinegar and sugar, to be drizzled into a glass of cold fizzy water and enjoyed over ice. A good shrub is tart but not biting, with a solid hum of fruit and just enough sweetness to cut the acid from the bubbles. You can easily vary the sourness of the drink by adding more or less syrup, as you see fit.

This particular syrup came about more or less by accident. It started out as a straightforward infused vinegar, and a leftover use-up: I had the pits and dregs from a bag of cherries, and the remnants of a bunch of tarragon. So I combined them in a bowl, poured over some hot vinegar, and let them steep for a couple hours. The resulting vinegar was lovely and fragrant, but extremely subtle; I tried using it in salad dressings, but none of the cherry flavor came through. So I decided to mix in some sugar and turn it into a shrub syrup. It was a wonderful decision.

A tablespoon of this syrup, stirred into a glass of iced fizzy water, makes a shrub that is light, sweet and aromatic. There’s a whisper of cherry and a hint of licorice, and the whole glass is tinted a very pale pink. There’s a touch of vinegar-tang, but really, it just tastes like a slightly upscale Italian soda. It was the perfect thing to sip under an open window with a fan on full blast.

cherry tarragon shrub syrup

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Cherry tomato gazpacho

Sometimes, it’s better to run up the white flag and admit defeat. This is one of those times. After many years, many attempts, many perplexed spoonfuls, it’s time to face the truth: I’m just not that crazy about gazpacho.

It’s a raw-tomato thing. No matter how delicately it’s flavored, or how finely it’s blitzed, there’s always that sharp, sweet undertone of raw tomato that stops me cold. I don’t know why it bothers me so much, but it does. It always spoils the soup for me. I’ve had–and loved–gorgeous gazpachos based on almonds, or bell peppers, or watermelon. Gazpacho itself doesn’t bother me. But the old-fashioned tomato-based salad-in-a-bowl gazpacho? The one people think of when they think of gazpacho? Not my thing.

It seems bizarre, not to like gazpacho. Almost everyone I’ve met thinks it’s a treat. So I keep trying, thinking that if I make it myself, I’ll like it better. Years pass between attempts, and I forget how unimpressed I was, and start wondering. That last batch I made wasn’t terrible. Maybe I’ll make it right this time, and teach myself to love it. There’s always one more attempt, leading to one more bowl of disappointing soup.

This latest effort was no exception. I thought, maybe if I base this one on cherry tomatoes–which I can sometimes convince myself to eat–I’ll fare better. I left the gazpacho chunky, in deference to Sam (who hates pureed soups), and it was…not pleasant. That tomato tang was there in spades, and every squishy crunch of a tomato hull reminded me of what I was eating.

But Sam seemed to like it. He cleaned his bowl in record time. So, all things considered, this is probably a reasonably tasty gazpacho; I’m just a terrible judge.

cherry tomato gazpacho

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