Tag Archives: Cauliflower

Cauliflower broccoli soup

I love broccoli. I really, really, really do. Which is why I don’t understand how so many people want to muck up good broccoli soup by adding a bunch of potato to it.

Now, granted, I’ve had good broccoli potato soup once or twice, always with more broccoli than potato in it. But even then, the fuzzy heaviness the potato gives just isn’t my thing. I’m always hesitant to order broccoli soup in restaurants, because it so often comes with a sludgy, slightly grainy potato base. Which is why, when I was craving a thick, pale, slurpable broccoli soup recently, I turned to cauliflower instead.

I just love what cauliflower does when it meets hot liquid and a blender. When pureed, it turns almost starchy, but with a lightness that starch just can’t match. I’ve used it as a potato replacement in soup before, with roasted garlic and red lentils, but this might be my new favorite mutation. Broccoli and cauliflower are cousins, so it only makes sense that they would play well together–bold and brassy versus subtle and sweet. Mixing them together creates an almost airy soup, comforting yet light, perfect for sipping out of a mug.

This is a soup that evolves over time. Immediately after blending, it’s loose and flowing, pale minty green, and the flavors are bright and clean. As it sits, it thickens slightly and darkens somewhat, and the flavors mellow and blunt a bit. Refrigerate it or freeze it, and it loses some of its invigorating freshness, becoming milder and subtler.

That’s fine by me, because a soup like this is best treated as a blank canvas. When it’s freshly made and crisp-flavored, a drizzle of olive oil is all it needs. But now that I’m working my way through my freezer stash, I’m taking the opportunity to play. So far, I’ve had leftover soup with a squeeze of fresh lemon and a handful of grated Parm; with a drizzle of toasted sesame oil and a squirt of Sriracha; and, tonight, with a dab of harissa and some feta cheese crumbles. All of my adaptations so far have been fantastic, and all dramatically different. I love that so much.

cauliflower broccoli soup

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Roasted garlic, cauliflower, and red lentil soup

Summer is in its last flush here in California. The days are warm and clear and oh-so-slightly breezy. The farmer’s markets are still overflowing with stone fruit and tomatoes. The figs on my landlord’s trees are stubbornly waiting to ripen until the temperature really drops. But night is falling earlier now; the equinox glided by this weekend, and it’s time to face facts. Fall is creeping in.

As always, I’m half-sheepishly mourning the long hours of daylight. But I’m also excited, because fall weather means fall food. And right now, as the nights get chillier, fall food means soup. My little Ikea soup pot has been sitting on the stove all summer, quietly gathering grease spatters whenever I got up the gumption to stir-fry something. Last week I brought that poor patient soup pot back into commission, with my first soup of the season. And it’s a good one: a smooth, lightly spiced puree of cauliflower, red lentils, and roasted garlic.

This is a light-yet-lush soup, built on layers of sweetness: sharp-sweet onion, sugary-sweet apple, cabbagey-sweet cauliflower, and syrupy-sweet roasted garlic. The red lentils give a hint of body and an appealing earthiness, and a hint of cumin makes the whole thing smoky and slightly exotic. I decided at the last minute to add a big dash of turmeric–cauliflower and turmeric are great friends, and the spice played up the color of the lentils, taking the soup from muted gold to dandelion-yellow. It’s not absolutely necessary, but I thought it was a nice touch.

I especially like that there’s no dairy or starch in this soup, because the whole thing is at once comforting and nearly weightless. For a pureed soup, it’s a little on the thin-and-fuzzy side, which I happen to like. You could certainly add a small peeled and diced potato along with the lentils, or finish the soup with a drizzle of cream. I tried a dollop of yogurt in the picture below, but didn’t end up loving it–the richness of the yogurt masked the subtle sweetness of the vegetables, and blunted the spices. Call me a purist, but I prefer my soup as-is.

Oh, and in case you’re wondering about the lovely crispy-looking garnish on top …tune in next time for that story.

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